CHARITY ROBEY PHOTO | The author and chef’s horseradish crackers.
April is a difficult month for locavores. At a time when green shoots are coming up everywhere, and fruit trees are blooming, there is nothing green to eat, nor fruit to pick. The only edible things coming out of the earth in this season must be dug up, and that’s why horseradish is my subject. Planted in the spring, it grows all summer, fall and winter until a year later, it’s a root that looks like a shillelagh and acts like smelling salts.
Think of horseradish as Long Island mustard. (more…)
DAVID LAPHAM PHOTO | Steak salad with tangy carrot-ginger dressing.
When I was a kid, my family had a tradition of going to Benihana (yes, the Japanese steakhouse chain restaurant) right around New Year’s Eve. And I always loved the carrot-ginger dressing they put on their salads. In fact, I’d ask the waiter for an extra amount on the side, which ended up over all my food (to the delight of the knife-flipping chef). So when I became a chef, I started to wonder about making the dressing myself. (more…)
CHARITY ROBEY PHOTO | Rice pudding, a favorite treat.
“What is the matter with Mary Jane?” is the refrain of A.A. Milne’s classic children’s poem, “Rice Pudding,” and the answer is one of the great lessons of cooking. Too many servings of bland food will drive you mad. (more…)
DAVID LAPHAM PHOTO | Nothing warms the winter soul like a bowl of bouillabaise, served with a toasted baguette topped by a little aioli.
An easy and elegant dish to serve in the dead of winter, bouillabaisse (fish stew) has its roots in the southern French city of Marseilles.
Historically, fishermen would sell the best parts of their catch at the market and then save whatever was left over for their own families — and from that came bouillabaisse. (more…)
DAVID LAPHAM PHOTO | Pan-roasted venison with currant sauce.
Welcome to the first installment of Island Bites, my food column for the Shelter Island Reporter. I’m excited to be sharing the space with Charity Robey, and I hope you enjoy my easy-to-follow recipes. The column’s name stems from the distinctive local sources of food available here, many of which, besides being highly nutritious, require minimal cooking and preparation. In upcoming installments, I’ll feature simple recipes for Island staples like clams, fish, blackberries, vegetables from Sylvester Manor and much more. (more…)