CLARK MITCHELL PHOTO | Chicken paprikash.
With the reality of winter firmly setting in, my focus in the kitchen turns squarely to stewing and braising. Without the right seasoning, I find that many of these slow-cooked preparations can end up a bit on the bland side. Even a perfectly made beef stew can often leave the taste buds wanting just a bit more action.
I found my answer to this conundrum some years ago when I was invited to my friends’ parents house for dinner. His father was Hungarian, and that night we had paprikás csirke, or chicken paprikash. All I could say was wow. It’s since become my absolute favorite thing to cook in the winter. (more…)
CHARITY ROBEY PHOTO | The Long Island turnip served mashed with a whole roasted fish and caramelized onions.
When 91-year-old Wanda Wittmeier passed away in May of 2014, she went out at the top of her game. The Modern Snack Bar, a diner she founded in 1950 in Aquebogue, managed by her sons John and Otto, had just been named one of the country’s 10 best, and her lemon meringue pie garnered similar honors.
Of all the dishes served by the Wittmeier family at their venerable restaurant on the Main Road, the old-school take on mashed turnips connects most directly to the food and the culture of Long Island. (more…)
DAVID LAPHAM PHOTO | Smoked Gouda and leek tart.
October and November are great months to live on Shelter Island, but you need to work just a little harder to find the good local stuff. With fewer people and the return of a more tranquil rhythm, most of my stalwart farmstands have all but closed up.
Nonetheless, I know there’s local produce out there. (more…)
CHARITY ROBEY PHOTO | Just like the baseball playoffs, the East End’s giant peaches are an end-of-summer treat (and bigger than a baseball).
It gives me great satisfaction to roast something large. The pride of the Thanksgiving turkey, the suckling pig, the rack of lamb placed on the table in triumph, the dish that practically yells, “There is plenty, have some more.” (more…)
DAVID LAPHAM PHOTO | Tomato and zucchini — a taste of Provence on the East End.
It’s hard not to accept credit for your cooking in the dog days of summer — even if you don’t deserve it. Summer fruits and vegetables are approaching peak ripeness right about now and require little or no preparation in the kitchen. (more…)