Gardening with Galligan: More (much) about lillies
Our plan for this week was to continue with lilies and so we begin with the Orientals. These are some of the most beautiful lilies and the most fragrant. Blooming later in the season, in part because they are taller, they are always part of the backbone of the late summer garden.
The ancient Greeks held the Oriental Madonna lily, L. candidum, to be the flower of Aphrodite, goddess of love. The Romans thought it was the emblem of the goddesses Diana and Venus, and it often played a significant role in their devotional ceremonies and festivals.
Over the centuries, travelers, as well as plantsmen, brought these exotic plants to Europe. As trade exploration increased throughout the New World, lilies found their way there, from China, Japan and many European outposts and colonies. As the 19th century came to an end, the Gold Band lily of Japan, L. auratum, was already being grown commercially in America and England. Among the most fragrant of the lilies, it was this feature that made this particular lily enormously popular. Because the bulbs that were produced and sold initially had been poorly cultivated, these original Oriental lilies were found to be difficult to grow. Today, of course, they are as easy as daffodils.
An American historian and horticulturalist named Francis Parkmann first achieved important hybridization in 1860, followed in the 20th century by two New Zealanders, J. S. Yeates and Leslie Jury. In the United States, at the famous Oregon Bulb Farms, Jan de Graff led the way in the production of the Oriental hybrids. The literature makes special note of an American named Leslie Woodrigg, who in the 1970s introduced the very first upward facing Oriental lily hybrid, which the world knows as Stargazer, available today in any nursery catalog. It should be noted that it is this upward facing feature that makes the Orientals as wonderful as they are.
These lilies, if part of a perennial border, should be grouped in threes or fives or more, behind lower-growing perennials. The tallest among the groups, at a full 6 feet, requires a very wide bed in order not to overwhelm; however, there are many in the 2-, 3- and 4-foot range that fit in very nicely. They can also be grown as patio plants, in large pots or planters. If you go this route, I would recommend using a border of ivy, which will spill over, cascading, and thus reduce the vertical look of the lilies. The shorter ones, Mona Lisa at 24 inches, a pink and white bicolor, or Gold Band, white with bright yellow stripes down the center of each petal, also at 24 inches, are good choices.
Lilies can be planted in sun or part shade; a south-facing location is recommended. Lilies have what are called “contractile roots” and they will pull the plant down to the correct depth. Consequently, it’s always better to plant them too shallowly than too deep. I have never found lilies to be fussy about soil pH; it’s drainage, rather than acidity, that’s important. If you’re planning on a lot of lilies, best buy stakes –— you will need them.
Next week we can finish up with lilies and move on to the September blooms — asters and Montauk daisies. It’s almost fall, if not officially, at least according to the garden. Pretty soon, we get to sit down.
Tip of the Week: All fertilizing should be done by now. You don’t want to encourage growth at this point, but rather let plants harden off; new and tender growth will only be killed off with the first hard frost.
