Island Bites: Source of the leeks
October and November are great months to live on Shelter Island, but you need to work just a little harder to find the good local stuff. With fewer people and the return of a more tranquil rhythm, most of my stalwart farmstands have all but closed up.
Nonetheless, I know there’s local produce out there.
From the road, I often get little glimpses of incredible backyard gardens still bursting with tantalizing vegetables. It actually makes me empathize somewhat with our pesky residential deer. But after coming to my senses, I shift gears and make do with what’s available (thank you, IGA).
That all changed a few weeks ago after pulling over at Kilb’s on Route 114. Owned by Alfred and Diane Kilb, this unassuming and charming farmstand was bursting with luscious late-season tomatoes, pumpkins, herbs and much more. Like a mirage appearing in your rearview mirror, Kilb’s keeps the food party going well into the fall season when others have shuttered operations. Alfred and Diane source their produce from several farms in the area and stay open until there’s nothing more coming up from the ground.
During my last visit to Kilb’s, I was particularly taken by a bunch of healthy-looking leeks perched neatly on the cart shelf. A relative of the onion but with a slightly milder flavor, leeks are a celebrated ingredient in classic French cooking, most notably in leek and potato soup (or Vichyssoise when cream is added and the soup is served very cold). The Kilb’s leeks were the inspiration for this smoked Gouda and Leek Tart, which is an ideal first course or hors d’oeuvres. Using store-bought puff pastry makes assembling the tart particularly easy. My favorite brand is called DuFour, but others will work just fine if you can’t find it.
What’s very important in this recipe is cleaning the leeks thoroughly before chopping them. Leeks can contain a lot of grit nestled in their stalks, and several washings are often necessary to get rid of it all. Although your more polite guests won’t say it, a gritty bite of tart isn’t exactly gastronomic ecstasy.
Kilb’s also sells a stunning assortment of flowers (arranged by Karen Kilb herself), so don’t forget to pick some up for your table. I doubt you’ll find any dahlias, though, as I may have scored the last ones.
Bon appetit!
Smoked Gouda and Leek Tart
Serves 8
1 or 2 sheets frozen but thawed puff pastry
2 leeks, white and light green parts, washed of grit and chopped
1 cup grated smoked Gouda
1/3 cup chopped scallions
2 tablespoons thyme (fresh or dried)
1 teaspoon salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch nutmeg
3 tablespoons flour (for rolling the puff pastry)
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry to a 13-inch by 10-inch rectangle and transfer to a baking sheet (combining sheets from the packet if necessary). Prick the pastry all over with a fork and spread it with the leeks and cheese. Sprinkle with the salt, pepper, thyme and nutmeg. Bake until golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes. Cool for another 10 minutes. Garnish with the chopped scallions. Cut into pieces and serve.
Chef’s note: Once cooled, the tart pieces can easily be frozen for later use.
