11/27/19 2:00pm

Ms. Dempsey explored the joy of cranberry this holiday season.

In the grand opera that is the Thanksgiving dinner, one of my favorite players is the unpretentious cranberry. Growing on long vines in sandy marshes, they’re primarily harvested in the Northeast, then millions of pounds of them are turned into jelly cylinders engraved with the grooves of Ocean Spray cans, where they make a command performance once a year on Thanksgiving tables.