Island Bites: Pan-Roasted Venison with Currant Sauce

Welcome to the first installment of Island Bites, my food column for the Shelter Island Reporter. I’m excited to be sharing the space with Charity Robey, and I hope you enjoy my easy-to-follow recipes. The column’s name stems from the distinctive local sources of food available here, many of which, besides being highly nutritious, require minimal cooking and preparation. In upcoming installments, I’ll feature simple recipes for Island staples like clams, fish, blackberries, vegetables from Sylvester Manor and much more.

Of all Shelter Island’s widely-available food sources, perhaps none is more prominent than venison. What some might consider a pest, others (namely chefs like myself) see as a delicacy worth savoring. A venison tenderloin entrée at a restaurant might set you back $35 or more, but here, that entrée is free. Just visit the freezer at the recycling center, and you’ll find professionally butchered venison cuts (while supplies last, of course). Cooking venison, especially lean cuts like the tenderloin and leg, is a breeze if you stick to high, searing heat and short cooking times. This technique is a good guideline for medium rare results. Of course, cuts like those from the shoulder stand up well to stewing and other braising preparations.

This simple recipe for pan-roasted venison with currant sauce only requires basic ingredients and makes for an elegant winter dinner. Sides could include your favorite starch and vegetable. And consider an earthy red wine like a Côtes du Rhône or perhaps a hard cider to accompany the meal. Should you have any questions on this recipe or cooking in general, don’t hesitate to email me at david@chefdavidlapham. You can also visit my website: www.chefdavidlapham.com.

Bon appetit!

Pan-Roasted Venison with Currant Sauce

Serves 4  |  Cooking Time: 25 minutes

The marinade:

¾ to 1 pound venison tenderloin or leg steak (thawed), cut into 4 pieces, each about ¾ inches thick

3 cloves garlic, each cut into halves

2 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil

2 tablespoons soy sauce

¼ cup brown sugar

1 sprig rosemary, use leaves pulled off stem

1 teaspoon Worchestershire sauce

Cooking and the sauce:

1 tablespoon canola or grapeseed oil

1 tablespoon ketchup

2 tablespoons currant or blackberry jelly

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

3 tablespoons red wine

2 tablespoons apple cider or red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, combine marinade ingredients and add venison. Toss well then cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a least 2 hours before cooking (up to 24 hours).

In a separate small bowl, combine ketchup, jelly and soy sauce. Set aside.

Remove venison from marinade and pat dry with a paper towel. Sprinkle each piece on both sides with the salt and pepper.

In a large skillet, heat oil and butter over high heat until butter foam subsides. Add venison and cook for about 3 minutes on each side, lowering heat to medium if necessary. Remove and place tin foil over venison to keep warm.

In the same pan, add shallots and cook for about 1 minute over medium-low heat. Add wine, vinegar and cook for another 2 minutes until reduced by half. Add jelly mixture and cook until sauce thickens, about 1 additional minute.

Place the steaks on plates and spoon sauce over the meat. Serve with sides.