Irish Brown Bread

I inherited the tradition of making white soda bread with raisins, currants and caraway seeds in a black iron frying pan from my grandmother and aunts, and continued making it.

However, living in Ireland years ago, and on many trips since, we enjoyed the brown bread served in B&Bs, pubs and restaurants — before, during and following a meal.

Although I’ve been cooking all my life, I’ve always been a cautious baker since I was told that measurements matter, and a really good baker follows the rules. Lately, though, I’ve been missing brown bread, and so I decided to give it a try.

There are so many recipes, it was daunting. But I discovered a few basics.

Always use stoneground whole-wheat flour. And, if possible, one from Ireland.

Always use buttermilk. If you don’t, you’ll make good bread but not the genuine article.

Using Guinness is not as much an absolute. Some do and some don’t. Most bakers say it adds a nutty flavor and darker color, but it’s not a bread-breaker. Do use baking soda, not baking powder. Really? Yes, baking soda. In addition to dark brown sugar, treacle (molasses) is the sweetener that adds color, intensifying the color of the Guinness and wheat flour.

The other ingredients are pretty standard. So, after quite a few experiments (and some delicious treats), this is what my beloved co-taster/non-baker and I agreed was most authentic and our favorite. It’s adapted from the recipe at the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin.

Irish Brown Bread

Ingredients:

2 1/2 cups stoneground whole-wheat flour

1 cup rolled oats (not instant) plus 1 tsp to sprinkle on top

1 tsp salt

1 tsp baking soda

2 Tbsp packed dark brown sugar

1/3 cup molasses

1 cup Guinness

1 cup buttermilk

2 Tbsp honey

2 Tbsp melted butter

Instructions:

1.  Start by pre-heating the oven to 350 degrees. Prepare a loaf pan (9×5 inches) by cutting a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom and 2 sides of the pan, leaving an inch or two extra to act as handles to remove bread from pan. Butter the paper to stick to the pan.

2. Add first four dry ingredients (flour, oats, salt, baking soda) to bowl and blend with a whisk. Then mix in the brown sugar until thoroughly incorporated.

3. Combine wet ingredients (molasses, Guinness, buttermilk and melted butter) and pour into dry ingredients, stirring by hand with a spoon or spatula until blended, but don’t over mix.

4. Spread the dough into the prepared loaf pan with a spatula, pressing carefully into the corners. Cut a line down the middle of the dough with the spatula or a blunt knife to provide a vent to expand. Sprinkle the top of the dough with the reserved oats.

5. Bake at 350 degrees for 55-65 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

6. Remove the bread from the oven and allow to cool. Slice and enjoy.

Notes:

We really enjoyed this when it was barely warm with butter. It was rich and almost cake-like. The next day, toasted or not, it was even better.

It stays fresh for several days (ha!) or can be sliced and frozen.

If you prefer not to use Guinness, substitute with the same amount of buttermilk or a combination of buttermilk and water, although you’ll lose the depth of both flavor and color.

Stoneground whole-wheat flour (as opposed to regular whole-wheat) is difficult to find, but it is definitely worth the effort. You can easily find Bob’s Red Mill brand on line.